Sugestões típicas parecem ser o uso de serras de bancada com lâminas de dentes finos para cortes (retos) em policarbonato. Se não fosse pela restrição de ferramentas de bancada, este provavelmente seria o caminho a percorrer. Por exemplo:
Polycarbonate sheeting can be cut with a basic pair of hand shears if the thickness of the sheet is less than 0.125 inches (1/8 of an inch). Thicker sheet material will have to be cut by means of a mechanical saw. Straight cuts can be performed by using a circular saw. Curved cuts are made using either a vertical band saw or a hand-held jigsaw. In all cases for mechanical cutting of the plastic sheet, a fine-toothed blade must be used or else severe break out will occur to the plastic's cut edges. (Source.)
I need to cut a sheet of Lexan. [Neither] scoring it [nor] using a jigsaw [seems] to yield a good result and a clean edge (even after sanding). ...
[It cuts] well with a band saw or table saw using a high speed with small teeth. A jigsaw might tend to crack acrylic, but will be fine for polycarbonate.
"We just used a table saw with an aluminum cutting blade on it. One had to use extreme care when cutting. Go REALLY slow..." (Source.)
No entanto, algumas ferramentas portáteis são sugeridas por várias pessoas:
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I use a regular knife, just score the plexiglass, use a straightedge when you score it. Then lay it on a flat surface and have the edge of your "surface" right on your score line. Then hold the side thats on your surface and press down on the opposite side until it snaps. (Source.)
(Parece que existe mesmo " especializado" facas de pontuação "para este tipo de uso.)
One of the best ways possible seems counterintuitive, but is very accurate and easy to clean , and much less likely to chip, but get ready to sweat--the coping saw. Tiny teeth, unbelievably large amount of personal energy expended, beautiful and accurate cuts. (Source.)
Polycarbonate panels can be cut with power tools, but when using these any error you make can be exaggerated quickly ruining the sheet. We would recommend that you use a fine tooth pad saw such as the one below that is 14ppi and designed for plastics. (Source.)
hacksaw [or] light cuts [with bench tools]. (Source.)
Polycarbonate is cut and drilled with standard woodworking tools. Use a blade with 10 to 12 teeth per inch, such as a fine-toothed plywood cutting blade. (Source.)
[Polycarbonate] can be cut with common band and circular saws as well as with hand or power hack saws. Special blades are rarely required. Blade speeds and cutting rates are not so critical as with other thermoplastics because of the high heat resistance of polycarbonate. Special attention to blades and cutting rates is needed when sawing is the final or only machining operation, or when very thick sections are involved. [(I.e. over 1" thick.)] (Source.)
[Use either] a fine-toothed handsaw or jigsaw. ... Place the sheet on a stable surface and clamp down. Polycarbonate sheets can be relatively fragile so we recommend to use a timber block to cushion the impact of the clamp. ... Begin cutting. Polycarbonate is a material that is very easy to cut so you won't need to worry about splintering or cracking- just let the blade do all the work. (Source.)
O que a maioria dessas recomendações parece ter em comum é o uso de ferramentas de corte com dentes finos, como pode ser usado para compósitos de madeira muito rígidos, como madeira compensada dura ou MDF.
Eu acho que é provavelmente o caminho a percorrer. Obrigado por todas as outras sugestões.
(Boa preparação, como marcar uma boa linha e apertar a peça, deve ser óbvio. Da mesma forma, usando proteção para os olhos, etc.)