Como amarrar o cordel ideal para esse cenário de ponto 7 específico?

Question

Como amarrar o cordel ideal para esse cenário de ponto 7 específico?

#1 resposta do (1 votos)
#2 resposta do (0 votos)

1

This is a followup to this question: Como prender uma ponta de uma corda a vários pontos para distribuir a carga igualmente?

Specifically, I'm following this answer's advice about using a cordelette. Here is an informative article that shows how to tie a cordelette.

These two images from the linked article illustrate the general idea:

This image illustrates a multi-cordelette scenario:

In my case, there are 7 points available amongst which I'd like to equalize the load. They are arranged in a complicated way, and I'm wondering if I can indeed use all of them or not.

Offhand diagram of the potential fixing points' arrangement; notice the area where no rope can pass through:

Color-coded diagram illustrating possible cordelettes:

In the second diagram, the points are numbered 1 through 7, and their connections with the cordelette's knot (marked X) are color-coded. Green is good, meaning I am fairly certain they will help with equalizing the load. Red ropes are bad, either because they go through the no-rope area (rope 7X), or because their V-angle (explained in the article) is too steep, i.e. more than 60 degrees (ropes 1X and 3X).

It's the orange ropes that I'm unsure about. They go around other fixing points so as to reduce the V-angle, but they also increase the load exerted on those go-around points.

For example, the orange 7-6-X rope that goes from 7 to X through 6. Obviously fixing point 7 then takes on part of the load, but since this rope is pulling on 6 as well, load on it is increased as well. The question is: does the 76X rope add more load to its go-around point than it takes off? Same question applies to all three orange ropes in the diagram.

If the orange ropes increase the load on go-around points (6 and 2) more than they reduce it, it's not worth it.

To sum up, the question is: how to tie the optimal cordelette in this scenario? If going by my illustrated idea, would the orange ropes increase the load on points 6 and 2 more than decrease it?

rope-knots suspensão carregar

por Dominykas Mostauskis 06.03.2019 / 14:09

2 respostas

Tags rope-knots suspensão carregar

Quais habilidades sociais 3 – 4 cobririam todas as necessidades? [fechadas] Por que não existem defensores widebody para os mercados de alta densidade de curta distância?

score 1 · Answer 1

Honestamente, acho que você já pensou demais nisso. Desde que seu ponto de ancoragem se espalhe muito longe, você não deve ter um problema, não precisa se preocupar muito com a transferência de carga, porque há apenas uma carga nele. Se você planeja balançar na sua rede, é uma história diferente. Por outro lado, você também não precisa se preocupar em cair até a morte.

Você poderia tentar algo assim Usando seis dos pontos de ancoragem descritos, você pode facilmente fazer ajustes nos pontos de suporte de carga, ajustando três comprimentos.

Teste seus pontos de ancoragem

Comece com seus melhores pontos de ancoragem. Fixe uma corda no lugar a uma altura confortável para você segurar e puxar e depois saltar um pouco. Use seu julgamento para descobrir a qualidade da ancoragem. Costumo montar coisas sobre a cabeça das pessoas e o melhor teste de campo que já fiz é pendurar uma âncora individual quadruplicando efetivamente a carga que ela possivelmente veria.

talvez seja uma representação mais precisa do que você precisa

Once you have one or two decent anchor points the rest are just insurance. with this setup always make sure the two best anchor points are together.

score 0 · Answer 2

A cordelette is probably overkill. When I am building a climbing anchors with a cordelette, I am trying to create a SERENO anchor:

Solid/Strong
Equalizado
Redundante
Eficiente
No Extension

Incorporating your 7 points makes your anchor solid (hopefully). Equalized is also important to you since you want to distribute the load. Redundant if one point fails, the whole anchor does not fail. There is a big difference between a total failure at 2 feet and 2000 feet above the ground. Efficient refers to how long it takes. If it takes you an hour to build an anchor, you get to drink more beer. If it takes a climber an hour to build an anchor, they are not going to get to the top and will end up drinking less beer. No extension means if an anchor point fails that the master point does not move (as this could drop a climber over the edge or something else bad).

With this in mind I would create a loop between 6 and 7 and run it through the master pint carabiner. If either point fails, they both fail, but it will be equalized (and even handle slight shifts). I would also run a loop between 4 and 5 and the master point and another between 1 and 3 and the master point. I would then make a single loop between 2 and the master point.