Quanta potência é o aquecedor elétrico do banheiro?

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Quanta potência é o aquecedor elétrico do banheiro?

#1 resposta do (1 votos)
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The omni wattmeter can't show power factor. The US KillAWatt meter can? But it doesn't have 240v version so I'm stuck with the only wattmeter in my country.

YouTube video of the wattage measurement

https://youtu.be/mPzP-6Nqt9E

I need to determine maximum wattage that can be drawn because i'm migrating it to subpanel with total whole house GFCI breakers.

Added pictures:

This is the heating elements:

Notice the last 2 were wired shorted. So are these one or two heating elements pair? How is it wired?

This is thermal scan of the heating elements a few seconds after turning on the faucet.

It shows all are energized.

This is the reading in the plug-in wattmeter showing 1278 Watts while the faucet is turned on and thermal scanner on.

This is top left side of heating elements showing the thermal cutoff fuse (once it tripped and the technician taught me how to push it to turn it back on):

This left side of it showing the wires from elements to the circuit:

This is front of it:

Zoomed out view:

What kind of usage that you can enable the entire 6000watts of heater element? I can't seem to get the wattage in my WattAMeter. Is it an overated heater? Based on the internal parts. Which one is the heating elements? I want to know how many there are. Also if it's really 6000watts/240v= 25A, the plug is only rated for 15A and could melt.

It's a Multipoint electric heater in bathroom. Since it has no EGC, it's connected to a GFCI breaker. I'm trying to estimate the wattage actually used. I plugged a KillAWatt meter to measure wattage consumption. It has at most only 1800 Watts maximum at all temperature which is about 1800/240v= 7A. Although it averages 1200 Watts most of the time. I have two of these exact units so it can't be both are defective. They heat well. But the specs of the heater says it is 6kW. Why is the meter showing smaller value of the wattage? Also the temperature setting is supposed to just control water flow, right? I used medium and maximum setting, the wattage didn't change. What wattage did you actually measure and what is the theoretical one that should come out?

This is its specs:

http://zetaorion.com/alpha-electric/product/vizz-98-e-ep/

click 98EM (M for Multipoint which I have)

elétrico

por Jtl 01.02.2019 / 03:13

2 respostas

Tags elétrico

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score 1 · Answer 1

I only see 1 heating element on that 6kw heater is there a second one in the back? I did notice one of the wires going through what may be a current transformer so the unit can detect the amount of power being used. With the temp control being electronic there may be some calibration settings since it has electronic control turn the temp knob all the way up and flow as much water through as possible. If your water is reaching temp it may not draw the full 25 amps that a 6kw heater can require. If your water is not reaching the correct temp and you are not drawing full amperage the control board(s) may be faulty, contact alpha. From looking on line this could be a common problem if less than a year old it should be under warranty and the comments on line were positive about alphas customer service.

score 1 · Answer 2

I doubt anything drawing 8kW is going to have a plug, but if it did it would be a very large plug like an electric stove or clothes dryer. That said, these heaters typically have multiple heating elements. It's possible that not all the elements are turning on based on the water flow or that some of the elements are bad.

From what I could find on that product, it seems to be sold in Malaysia. If it was sold in the US, it would have a label or plate that listed the electrical requirements on the back or on the inside of the wiring cover. I'm not sure if that's true in your part of the world, but I would look for such a label rather than relying on information from the internet. For simple devices like a heater, those electrical requirement labels tend to be accurate.

Edit based on internals:

The large copper "tank" on the right is the heating unit, and there seems to be only one. The label indicates that it could use até 6000 watts at 240v. The label in the bottom right also seems to indicate 6kW is required. To me, that indicates that the wiring going to the device should be rated to handle 6kW (25 Amps). If the plug it's going to is protected by a 15A breaker, then you wouldn't have to worry about melting wire - you would just trip the breaker if too much power was used.

The two tubes at the bottom would be the water inlet and outlet. There might be a flow sensor on the inlet side behind the bracket. The wires connected to the bottom of the heating unit look to be a high-temperature cutoff switch that's common on heating appliances - or even just a temperature sensor.

The copper stubs at the top of the tank are the ends of the heating elements. It's hard to tell, but it looks like there might be 4 stubs which would be the two ends of two heating elements. Because there are so many wires going to the top, there could be some multi-stage electronically controlled magic going on that only uses the current needed to heat the water to a set temperature. Incoming water temp and flow rate could determine the amount of power needed.

The black box with the two red wires on top of the heating element might be some type of high-pressure cutoff. I don't think you would need red, thick wires for a temperature or flow sensor.